Iraqi government offices–first impressions

Today I visited a high ranking official at the Ministry of Interior (MoI) headquarters in Baghdad. Previously I’ve met one of his subordinates at a satellite office elsewhere in Baghdad. A few things were common to both, that jumped out at me as unexpected:

  • Smoking is as common here as it was in the US in the 50s. Everyone smokes, and it smells accordingly
  • The lighting is poor, and the walls and floor dingy. One feels like one is in a third world country
  • There is a television on and visible from the official’s desk, showing either American programming with Arabic subtitles (it was 60 Minutes today) or Arabic language programming
  • There is a male secretary or assistant at the official’s beck and call, who is summoned to bring chai, juice, or other refreshment in accordance with the Arabic custom
  • Despite holding military ranks like Major, Colonel, General, etc, the officials wear civilian clothes in the Western business casual style

My biggest problem is w/ the TV; it’s very hard for me to focus my attention on the official when a television is blinking in the corner of my eye. On the plus side, the chai (tea) today was excellent; sweet and delicious.

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